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Iquitos is getting quite a reputation as a drug-tourism
destination, due to the misunderstanding of and misinformation about
ayahuasca and shamanism. A shaman is a healer who uses natural as well as spiritual
resources. Ayahuasca is a tool he uses, among other things, to enter the
spiritual world.
The
Ayahuasca Ritual, Amazon Basin, Peru
To many people, the Amazon Basin
of Northern Peru is a fascinating place because of its biodiversity. And
they are right; the birthplace of the Amazon, the mightiest river on Earth,
is still the most biodiverse place on the planet.
But this region is more than just
a collection of countless plant and animal species. It is also the homeland
of 23 native tribes that have lived here for over a thousand years. Each
one has its own language, culture, customs, myths and legends.
Shamans, or medicine men, have inherited
the knowledge of dozens of generations. They know everything about the
natural, but also about the mystical and spiritual side of the jungle. They
know every plant, every animal, but they also know the power that the
forest holds. The sheer amount of different medicinal plants is simply
astonishing, let alone their applications, whether in combination with
other plants or not.
One of the better known medicinal
plants is ayahuasca (pron: aya-wasca), a vine that can easily be found deep
in the rainforest. Ayahuasca is treated with great respect by the local
population, because it is one of the most powerful plants in the forest.
Only the shaman is allowed to use, prepare and apply ayahuasca, because
messing with this plant can land you in a world of problems. Knowledge and
experience are necessary!
According to the shaman, ayahuasca
is the key to the spiritual world. Those who use it, open the gate to
‘the other side’ and are able to contact the spirits of ancesters
and loved ones. Ayahuasca causes incredibly clear and detailed visions en
sometimes provides answers to old questions.
Whether you believe in spiritual
visions or in hallucinations; this product is known for its strong
cleansing qualities of both body and spirit. Those who undergo an ayahuasca
ritual usually have to go through a fase of severe vomiting and diarreah.
Therefore a preparational period of a few days up to a week is recommended.
Those who don’t keep to a strict diet as prescribed by the shaman
during this period and furthermore smoke, drink alcohol or consume other
types of drugs should realize that they are in for a heavy session. But
many people who have taken part in an ayahuasca ceremony describe it as a
life-changing experience.
Unfortunately, ayahuasca is
becoming better known around the world as a hallucinogenic drug. Iquitos, the capital of
Loreto, the northern Peruvian province and birthplace of the Amazon, sees
increasing numbers of ayahuasca-tourism. Because of the rainforest, the natural
environment and the low prices, Iquitos was already popular with young,
hippy-like backpackers, but now more and more people come to this region,
just to use ayahuasca. Not to experience its spiritual cleansing qualities,
but just to get high. And for that you don’t need a shaman. Or so one
believes!
As could be expected, some
elements within the local community have discovered that there is good
money to be made with ayahuasca. They approach gringo’s in the
street; “Ayahuasca? Ayahuasca?” It reminds me of the scum
hanging out on the street corners in poor inner city neighborhoods, dealing
drugs. There is no control; there are no laws, because the sale and use of ayahuasca
is not illegal. Especially young, adventurous and naïve toerists can
be persuaded to do business with these types, often with terrible results.
Tourists who really are looking for a bonafide shaman
who can provide them with a spiritual experience are sometimes cheated as
well. On the internet it is the charlatans, not the shamans, who offer
their services, often at enormously inflated rates of hundreds of dollars per
person. A real shaman doesn’t charge more than 10 or 15 dollars. I
know of one case where the so-called ‘shaman’ lives so close to
town, that he has people brought to his house via a huge detour, just to
give them the impression that he lives on a remote location in the forest.
But, apart from being overcharged,
some tourists become victims of robbery, theft, or sexual assault. People
under the influence of ayahuasca usually can’t tell the difference
between what’s real and what’s illusion and are completely
dependent on the ‘shaman’ for their well-being. On the internet
one can easily find many horror stories about these practices.
And finally, there is the matter
of health. As I pointed out before, ayahuasca is a very potent potion.
Those who use it without proper preparation, or even worse, in combination
with drugs or alcohol, take a real risk. In Iquitos, everyone knows the
stories about gringo’s who lost control and went crazy after using a
combination of ayahuasca with other substances. Many end up in the
hospital. In Iquitos, that is no guarantee that you will get better! There
are stories about the unfortunate ones who didn’t survive to tell the
tale as well, but personally I cannot confirm any of those.
I am not against the use of ayahuasca.
On the contrary; I think that, under the right circumstances, with the
guidance of a genuine shaman, it can be a fascinating and enhancing
experience. The problem is the lack of a supervisory body that can advise
and give recommendations and that can take action against bad practices.
There are plans to start a shamanic center in Iquitos, where people can go
for information, advice and bookings. Everyone, both shamans as well as tourists,
would benefit from such a center. But for the moment there is no such thing
yet. Unil that time, one can only give tourists a couple of tips; a real
shaman never rinks alcohol and never charges you up front. True, it
isn’t much, but it may give you an indication.
If you are looking for an authentic
shamanic experience of bodily and spiritual cleansing and enrichment, I can
help. I’ll be happy to find you a bonafide, qualified shaman. There
are plenty around. Just send me a mail to make an appointment at mrgart@gmail.com and I will take care
of everything for you.
Those who just want to get high
and have a wild time; just stay away. Iquitos has no use for your kind of
tourism; we have more than enough problems already.
Some links to fascinating stories about ayahuasca are:
SCP.org
Living In Peru / 9 de Octubre
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